Stamp Collecting with GS

Soaking Stamps

Soaking stamps is something like a folk art. Every collector has their collection of bowls, papers, blotters, weights, techniques and rules, which is to say that nearly every method will work, but its the collector's experience and care that determines the outcome.

Since the condition of a stamp is so important, soaking's first law is "do no harm." The goal is to loosen the stamp's gum so that it comes free from the envelope with the least amount of handling and without being stained.

The first consideration is to avoid time and effort with obviously damaged or unwanted stamps. If you have 50 copies of the same issue, select only those few you think would be worth the time and effort.

Then trim off large pieces of envelope from around the stamps with a small pair of scissors.

Sorting

Next sort the stamps and the paper they are on. You want to find those colored pieces of envelope whose colors might run while they are soaking. Generally, the plain bright white envelopes are color-fast, while manila envelopes tend to leach yellow ink and to stain stamps.

The colored borders of airmail envelopes are notorious for turning the water and stamps blue, red and purple. Also be aware that purple postal cancellations tend to run in water.

Avoid stamps on pieces that are marked with pens and magic markers. Some will run in water. The same goes for other labels on the envelope, like "airmail" stickers. They get their own cup.

Self-adhesive stamps are best tackled issue by issue. Some adhesives will loosen in water and some will not. Take a damaged stamp on paper and test it. If soaking doesn't cause any harm and the stamp floats off the paper, you're in business.

Be aware of "fugitive inks." Some stamps were printed with inks that dissolve in water. They would stop the removal of cancellations and their reuse.

Soak stamps on colored envelopes in small bowls or cups by themselves. It's impossible to tell which colored paper inks will run when soaked in water, so play it safe.

You could test small bits of envelope with a cotton swab (Q-Tip) if you'd like to see what colors run, but when in doubt play it safe, do no harm. On the other hand, all stamp collectors have to experiment from time-to-time, and an autopsy on a badly obliterated stamp will be instructive.

Soaking

You need the right-sized bowl for the job. Don't cram hundreds of stamps into a coffee cup. It'd be better to place a few in a swimming pool. When the bowl's filled with water and stamps, you should be able to gently swirl the contents around the bowl.

Glue and ink are affected by temperature and water. Never use HOT water. Mild warm water is fine. Cold is good, too. Some people use mild liquid dish soap as a wetting agent to help the process along, but if you're experimenting do so with a cupful of stamps.

If your tap water has high iron or magnesium content, you might want to fill up a few gallon jugs from another tap.

Ideally, a little agitation will help the water do its job. Swirling the bowl a few times every now and then during commercials would be just exactly right.

Fishing

When a cluster of stamps starts swimming free around the bowl, it's time to remove the stamps from the water. The goal is to get the stamps out of the bowl and some of the water off with the least amount of fuss.

First pour out the gummy, gray water into the sink and fill the bowl with enough fresh clean water to cover the mass of paper. The shallow pool of water helps the stamps to swim free.

Drying

To dry the stamps you need a make a blotter. I use a bottom layer of four or five sheets of newspaper, covered by a top sheet of clean white kitchen paper towels. Other people have photographic studio blotters. Just use the one that works for you, but don't put your wet stamps on colored papers or newsprint or they may be stained.

Sort through the bowl of stamps one-by-one, placing each one face-down on the drying sheets and tossing away the bits of envelope. The stamps are very fragile when wet, and an index finger and thumb can crease a commemorative before you know it. On the other hand, a tong blade can be lethal. The trick seems to be to skim the stamp onto your fingertip and then lay it onto the paper as gently as possible.

When a stamp won't come loose, let it soak. If it resists, try gently peeling it away with your tongs. If it is still stubborn, set it aside until you have to time to figure it out.

Now when the stamps are out and drying, let the water evaporate for a while. Obviously, hot, humid rainy days and tables set up near roaring woodstoves will have different drying times.

Pressing

After the stamps' excess water has dried up but BEFORE they loose all their moisture and curl up, lay a sheet of waxpaper down over the stamps. Then on top of this place flat, heavy objects to press the stamps down and keep them flat. Large coffee table books work well, as long as they themselves have no raised designs on them and are flat. Avoid laying a heavy book over half a stamp: it will crease it.

Finishing Up

After a few hours, check your cache. If they are still damp, then do no harm and leave them be, as long as they are neat and flat. If the stamps slip around like dry leaves, remove them from your makeshift press.